Method of making shoes



H. E. MARTIN. METHOD oF MAKING sHoEs. APPLICATION FILED MAR. lI I9I-8.

Patented Mar. 16, 1920.

AWE/vm?.

UNITED sTATEs PATENT oEEroE.

HARRY E. MARTIN, .OF AUBURN, MAINE, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, 0F PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OE NEW JERSEY.

METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Mar. 16, 1920.

Application led March 1, 1918.V Serial No. 219,822.

drawings indicating like parts in the sev y eral figures.

The present invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and more particularly to improved methods of making shoes of the type termed turn shoes.

In the manufacture of turn shoes several different methods are practised to enable a counter which has been previously molded to its final shape to be incorporated in the shoe. The principal object of the present invention is to provide an improved method of making turn shoes such that a previously `molded counter and, if'desired, a heel seat and shank member may be incorporated in a turn shoe with accuracy and facility, to the end that the resulting shoe may present a better appearance and have superior fitting qualities than were obtainable by the methods heretofore practised. i

In one of its aspects, the invention consists in assembling a shoe upper and a sole upon a last and attaching the upper to the sole completely around the sole but leavingA the liningof the upper unattached to the sole around the heel part, locating a previously molded counter having an inturned flange in its final, assembled relationV oni the sole, heel-seat nailing the'shoe within the area of the heel seat, the heel seat nails f passing through the inturned fiange of thev counter and the margin of the sole, and thereafter performing the operation of turn ing theV shoe right side out, -and relasting the shoe in the usual manner. As herein illustrated, the method of the invention further contemplates assembling the molded counter and a shank member for the shoe in their final relative position prior to per-v forming the operation of heel seat nailing the combined counter and shank stifl'ener to the shoe and before the shoe has been turned right side out and relasted. Conveniently, the molded counter and the Ashank piece are permanently assembled prior to their being positioned on the shoe, in which case the forward ends of the counter which project beyond the heel breast line of the shoe may be secured to thershank member. lAlso these parts maybe manipulated' to better advantage when assembled together.

In another of its. aspects the invention consists in permanently securing together the margins of the counter, the shank piece, the shoe upper and the sole by a seam of fastenings after the last is withdrawn and before relasting. Also, preferably, the fastenings are inserted to attach the several parts of the shoe after turning the heel pore tion of the shoe into position for the heel seat nailing operation to be performed to the best advantage,rbut preferably before the shoe has been completely turned right side out. This practice permits thepermanent attachment of the heel parts of the shoe at such time as they occupy their final relative positions without a lastV being in the shoe, so that the fastenings can be inserted to better advantagev and the parts secured in proper relation with greater precision. Furthermore, the lining ofthe shoe is left free of constituent parts ofthe shoe lso that opportunity is presented for disposing the lining of the shoe in the vheel to the best advantage, it being necessary in vmany instances with the' present practices .to cut thelining to eliminate the wrinkles formed in it by the second lasting operation on the shoe. Conveniently the margin p of the lining is foldedI on the top' of vthe shank member and covered with a sock lining after the second last is withdrawn from the shoe. Y

1 The preferred manner in which the improved methodof the present invention may be successfullyhpractised and the shoe produced with the aid of this inventionl will now be described inr connection with the accompanying drawings, and the .invention will then be pointed out in the appended claims. f,

vFigure 1 is a perspective view of a shoe illustrating an assembled shoe upper secured to a sole in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is ,a perspective view illustrating the manner of incorporating the counter in the shoe;

Fig. 3 is a perspectiveiview, partly in member 6, are assembled preferably uponv the last 5 upon which the shoe is to be inade, and permanently'secured in the relation they are to occupy in ltheV completed shoe, as shown in Fig. 3. It is not necessary,

of course, to use the last for the form'upon which these two members are assembled,

since any suitably shaped form which will enable ,the two members to be secured together by Vfastemngs 9 passing through the margin of the shank member 6 and the ini turned flange 4 of the counter 2 YYmay be used equally as well. 'By thus securing toge'tlurthe counter 2 and the shank member 0, a bottom Vis provided for the counter Y and the shank member so secured to the Vcounter as to insure its being accurately positionedv in the shoe;

The shoe upper 10 and lining 12 of the shoe are assembled upon the last 5 and secured inside out to a channeled and shouldered sole 14 in 'the customary manner of making turn shoes, as indicated inF l. For sewed seat work the inseam stitches 15 are continued around the heel end of the shoe, and ,'in order to enable the counter 2 to be arranged between the upper 10 and the lining 12 after the shoe is turned. the liningr12 is left unattached to the sole on either side a distance approximating the length of the counter wings (see Fig. 1) which ordinarily extend beyond the heel Ybreast line, and to facilitate the disposition ofthe counter in thefshoe upper, the lining `is slit .at points where itY is left unattached to the sole and preferably folded backout of the way Vof the seam, as indicated at 16, `Fig; 1. If avnailed 4seat is desired, the inseam 15 isterminatedl at .approximately the 4heel breast line indicated at 17 and the unattached heel portion of the shoe upper is thenflasted over on ,to the upper surface of the vheel end ofthe sole 14 and secured by lasting tacks 18, the'lining 12in this instance being slit and left unattached to thesole from a distance forwardlyof the heel breastY line 17 rearwardly in asimilar manner as a sewed seat.

The next step 1n the method consists in placing the assembled counter 2 and shank member 6 upon the sole 14 in thel relative pos1t1on it 1s to occupy in the finished shoe,

and securing` it to the sole' temporarily by means of one or two tacks 20 driven through the shank member 6 and clenched upon the bottom of the sole by the metal heel plate on the heel end of the last. Y v

Following this step the first last 5 is withdrawn from the shoe and the heel end of the vshoe partly turned right side out so that the shoe is in a condition such as illustrated in Fig. 3 of the drawings. In this condition of the shoe the assembled counter 2 and shank member 6 are permanently secured to the margin of the sole 14 and the overlasted portion of the heel end of the upper 10 secured by fastenings'22 preferably driven i'om the outer or grain surface of the sole and clenched upon the inner surface of the shank member 6. Y Conveniently a loose nailing machineof the type shown in United States Patent N o. 1,030,77 5, granted June 25, 1912, on application `of George Goddu, is used for Vthis purpose, since the fastenings may be clenched on the horn r24 of such a machine, whichinsures a strong connection of .the parts of the shoe. This attachment of the Vcounter and shank member to the sole before the shoe is relasted serves to seat the counter rmly upon the solo and to close up the crease along the lower edge of the'counter 2 andthe upper surface ofthe sole. .3y partially turning the shoe yfor this operation the upper 10'is removed from the' bottom surface of the heel end of the sole so as to leave an unobstructed nailing surface, and also the lining 12 is kept out of the interior of the counter so as to eliminate any possibility of catching the lining in the seam during the fastening operation. Also, by permanently attaching the counter and shank piece in position in the shoe before turning` the forepartof the shoe, this latter operation maybe readily performed withlloo outrdanger of displacing the counter and' shank piece. lt has been found that satisfactory results may alsoy be secured by inserting the l Il) permanent fastenings 22 from the interior of the counter2 and clenching them upon 1 the bottom surface ofthe sole, last or on a horn on 'the fastening machine, in which case it will beV as equally advantageous to have the heel portion of the shoe half-k turned, the important consideration being permanently Vto attach the counter and shank V'member to theloverlasted Amargin of the shoe upper andV the ymargin of the sole prior to relasting the shoe, so that the relastingoperation is performed atsuch time as the foundation of thejshoe is practically completed and Vthe parts of the shoe secured `against displacement by subsequent operations.

The next step is lto complete the turning i" of the heel portion of the shoe in finalpo'sition and? also theV turning lof the forepart lof the shoe right sideoutj Then the shoe Vis second lasted by inserting a second last in the shoe, and, inasmuch as the counter and shank member is at the second lasting operation a permanent part of the shoe and properly disposed therein, this operation can be performed very readily. By following the above-enumerated steps, the presence of the second last in the shoe has sub- Y lining l2 is imattached to the shoe. This is of considerable importance as it now enables.`

" the opera-tor to rearrange and dispose the lining smoothly and without wrinkles in the heel end of the shoe, the lower margin of the lining being then folded inwardly on to theiupper side of the shank member 6. It is a common practice with the methods of making turn shoes heretofore practised to slit the lining after the second last is Withdrawn for the purpose of eliminating the wrinkles and uneven places in the lining due to the heel seat nailing and relasting operations as heretofore performed. Subsequently an inexpensive straw-board filler piece 26 is inserted in the shoe to even up the interior Walking surface in the shoe and cover the inturned margins of the heel lining and preferably a sock lining 28 is also inserted in the shoe to complete the interior finish of the shoe.

It will be noted that by the practice of the above method the location of the shank member 6 to secure its greatest efficiency in the use is insured, and since the permanently assembled counter Q- and shank member 6 accurately it the last upon which the shoe is relasted, it prevents any distortion of the sole and the upper when the second last is driven into the shoe. Also, by reason of the permanent attachment of the margins of the counter, shank'mem'ber, upper and sole prior to relasting the shoe. a much closer rand crease may be secured, and the relative arrangement and conditions of the constituent parts of the shoe are such that the shoe may be handled for this operation to better advantage and with greater facility than by prior methods.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new andV desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is l. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper inside out and a sole upon a last, attaching the upper to the sole completely around the sole but leaving the lining of the shoe upper unattached to the sole around the heel portion, positioning a previously molded counter and a shank member in their final relation to the sole, permanently fastening together the margins vof the sole,

upper, counter and shankmember, and subsequently turning and relasting thefshoe.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a f shoe upper inside out and a sole upon a last, attaching the upper to the sole completely around the sole, but leaving the lining of the shoe upper unattached to the sole around the heel portion, assembling a previously molded counterand a shank member in their final relation, and attaching them to the sole before the shoe is turned, permanently fastening together the margins of the sole, upper', counter and shank member, and subsequently turning and relasting the shoe.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper inside out and a sole upon a last, attaching the upper to the sole completely around the sole but leaving the lining of the upper' unattached to the solo around the heel part for a distance approximating` the length of the counter wings,

assembling a previously molded counter and a shank member in their final relation, attaching the assembled counter and shank member in their linal relation to the sole by fastenings passing through the margins of the sole, upper, counter and shank member, and subsequently lturning and relasting the shoe.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling an upper inside out and a sole upon a last, sewing the upper andflining to the sole forwardly of substantially the heel breast line, securing the portion of the upper rearwardly of the'heel breast line to the sole by metallic fastenings but leaving the lining unattached to the sole around the heel portion and a distance forwardly of the heel breast line corresponding to the projection of the counter wings forwardlv of the heel breast line, permanently associating a previously molded counter and a shank member in their nal relation and temporarily attaching them to thesole prior to turning the shoe right side out, permanently fastening together the margins of the sole, upper, counter and shank member in their final relations, and subsequently turning and relasting the shoe and performing subsequent shoemaking operations in the usual manner.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling an upper inside out and a sole-upon a last, sewing the upper and lining to the sole forwardly of substantially the heel breast line,

'lasting the portion of the upper rearwardly shoe right side out, finally attaching tached` to the sole around the heel portion and a distance forwardly of the heel breast 1 line, permanently associating a previously molded counter and a shank member in their final relation and temporarily attaching them to the sole prior to turning the shoe right side out, withdrawing the last and turning the heel end of the shoe right side out, securing together the' margins of the sole, upper, counter and heel stilfener by fastenings inserted from the bottom surface of the sole and thereafter turning the forepart of the shoe right side out and performing the subsequent operations upon the shoe in the usual manner.

G. That improvement in the art of incorporating molded counters in turn shoes which consists in locating a molded counter in upright position on the heel end of the sole of a shoe which is inside out and prior to the completion of the operation of turning the the counter to the shoe by insertingfastenings through the counter flange and the margin of the sole Within the heelk seat area of the shoe. Y Y

7. That improvementl in the art of incorporating molded counters in turn shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper inside out and a sole upon a last7 attaching the upper to the sole, locating a previouslyT molded vcounter in upright position on the heel seat portion of the shoe, driving a row of heel seat nails through the ange of the counter and the margin of the sole Within the heel seat area of the shoe finally to attach the counter, turning the shoe rightV side out and thereafter relasting the shoe and completing its manufacture.

8. That improvement in the art of incorporating molded counters in turn shoes which consists in locating a molded counter in upcounter Vand the margin of the sole, and thereafter turning and relasting the shoe.

9. That improvement in the art of incorporating molded counters in turn shoes which consists in lasting and sewing a shoe upper to the sole While the upper is inside out,

placing a molded counter having an inturned flange upon the sole inthe position in which it is to be located relatively to the sole when the shoe is turned right sidev out, placing thel shoe upon a support and,.before the shoe is relasted, finally attaching the counter to the shoe by driving' a plurality of fastenings through the flange of the counter and the margin of the sole within the heel seat area of the shoe.

10. The method of manufactiuing turned shoes of the type in which a molded counter is incorporated in the heel end of the shoe With the rear portion of the counter in contact with the inside of the upperwhich comprises assembling a shoe upper and lining and a sole inside out upon a last, partly attaching the upper and lining to the sole so as to leave the lining unattached aroundv the heel end of the shoe, pulling the last, turn. ing thel shoe right side out, inserting a second last in the shoe, and, prior to the insertion of the second last, applying a molded counter to the shoe, placing the shoe WithV the heel portion at least right side out upon a support, and driving fasteners through the soleinto the counter.

1l. That improvement in the art of making turned shoes Which' comprises placing upon a support the heel end of a shoe after it has been turned and a molded counter member includingl the molded counter proper and a Lstrengthening member attached to the inturned fiange thereof With fluently inserting a second last in the shoe and completing its manufacture.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

HARRY E. Mg-.rnfri-N. 

